American Pit Bull Terrier
This Category has no FAQ yet
Serious pit bull fanciers in the United States and the United Kingdom have never wanted kennel club recognition for the breed. They knew that once any breed became the victim of show ring breeding, it spelled ruination for any "purpose bred" dog.
Pit bulls breeders have - to this day - been notoriously secretive about how they breed their best dogs. Pete Sparks, one of the most noted authorities on pit bulls during most of the 20th century, stated that with only one or two exceptions (the Colby family being one of those exceptions) almost "all" breeders such as Joe Corvino,Maurice Carver, and others would intentionally fake pedigrees.
The A.K.C did register pit bulls in 1936. They changed the name to Staffordshire Terrier, and later, when they divided the breed again into two separate breeds, they changed it to American Staffordshire terrier and Staffordshire bull terrier.
Having a multi-dog household can be overwhelming to some people so before you get a second pet here are some tips:
1. Make sure your first dog is well trained and socialized2. Opposite sex dogs tend to coexist better3. If your dog is a dominate personality a submissive personality is going to be a match. If you get another dominate dog you are asking for trouble.4. If you dog is high energy try pairing them up with a medium energy dog. This will most likely calm down your higher energy dog.5. Do NOT get another dog hoping to fix your current dogs issues. This will most likely make the situation worse because you will now have 2 dogs that you can't control. It may give them a buddy but that's about all.6. Have the dogs meet before agreeing to the adoption or purchase. You dog may not be as friendly as you had hoped.
After the second dogs arrives:
1. Very first thing is to take them for a walk together. This will help them adjust better to each other.2. Still do things with each dog individually! Don't show favoritism to the new dog.3. Have the same rules for each dog!4. Watch their interactions carefully and be ready to correct any unwanted behavior between the two.
Today's animal control officers are expected to be more than just "dog catchers". Animal control officers are now an important law enforcement sector of every community. In many communities animal control officers rescue animals, run shelters and enforce state and local laws pertaining to animals.
1.Decide which state you would like to be an Animal Control Officer in. Every state varies in what their certification requirements are. To find out how to become certified or licensed in your state contact your local police or health department, local animal shelter or humane society or your state Animal Control Officer association
2.Don't just settle for the state mandated training! Take all the courses you can and get all the certifications that you can under your belt. The American Red Cross offers an Animal First Aid and CPR certification. Taking that course as well as the human version of it will add to your "First Responder" appeal.
3.Be a scout. Be prepared! Disaster preparedness and response are a hot topic nowadays. Many courses are offered through various animal advocacy organizations as well as state, local and federal government. F.E.M.A has a free, two part online course specifically geared towards animals and will issue a certificate upon completion.
4.Study, study, study! Go on sites such as Animalsheltering.org or Americanhumane.org and see what's new in the field. Both sites have sections geared specifically towards Animal Control Officers and animal.
Horses and dogs get many of the same worms.Although horse wormer is cheaper on a per- pound treatment basis they or not designed for dogs.You should not attempt to use medicine formulated for horses on your dog.The concentration in the horse wormer is extrmely high and the potential to overdose your dog is very likely if you miscalculate the dosage.
Ivermectin toxicosis is caused by giving a dog too much ivermectin the active ingredient in most horse wormers the symptoms include blindness,vomiting,coma,depression,and drooling to death though many people claim to use the products with no harm done to their dog.
See a lot of people who are true breed lovers/fanciers want to preserve the breed in every way they can. What makes this breed so great is the power of them to be game. The ONLY way to prove a dog is actually game is to pit it against another dog in a fight. The fights are controlled, the dog would only fight once to prove its worthiness that it is truly game not several times for money or anything like that.
Now I know dog fighting is illegal in most countries. However some people still do this illegally as well as people who live where its legal. Gameness can not be proven any other way apparently. Gameness is what has made this breed so versatile and good at work. Its what made the breed so determined and pretty much everything it stands for. Breed fanciers think if we don't game tests eventually this will be bred out of the breed (turning it into the am staff) and they don't want to see that happen.
I get what these people are saying, but I still don't think I can agree. I mean there are other ways to prove stock, but it still wont prove whether the dog is a cur or game.
The history of the pit bull far predates the time when bans on bull baiting caused blood sport fanciers to turn to fighting dog against dog. The very name "bull" or "bulldog" gives us the clue as to what the original purpose of this breed was. Far back into history - too far for us to see - man had bred dogs for gripping large game like boar and bear. From these dogs developed the Butcher's Dog, or Bulldog. The bulldog was an animal from 35 to 80 pounds, long of leg, sturdy in body, athletic, with a strong head and muzzle. The pit bulls of today descend directly from these animals.
A registry is an organization that keeps records of individual dogs and the history of entire breeds. A registry will record a dog's name, breed, color, owner, breeder, litter number, registration number, its pedigree, titles and DNA profile. Many registries also offer microchip services and registries in case your dog is lost.
Registries are not a guarantee of quality. Simply put, a registered puppy was born to registered parents. They rely on breeders to be honest when filling out the forms. A puppy does not have to pass any stringent tests to be registered; nor does it have to be healthy or come from healthy stock. Its temperament can encompass the worst of a breed and it still can be registered. No one from a registry examines the puppy or its parents before registration takes place.
This a breeding within the same blood lineage, in simpler words, basically among closely related specimens. This means, breeding's between tight family members such as mother and son, father and daughter or brother and sister. This may turn out being a risky business, as it may cause genetical flaws to surface., however it may also bring out strong points.
As the name implies, this type of breeding is carried out by mating specimens of the same bloodline. However, unlike in-breeding such specimens are no longer tightly related. Examples are matings between granddaughters and grand-sire or uncles and nieces. There are still risks for genetic flaws but desired characteristics can be more likely to surface if breeders are able to 'dig through' the pedigrees of at least five generations. This is considered the breeding method of choice for most breeders.
The definition of such term is the breeding of two specimens of the same breed but that are not in the same blood line, they are therefore strangers.This may also turn out being significantly risky business since there are generally no genetical maps to rely on, there is not much control on what may happen, as unknown charateristics may come out and cause new unwanted traits to surface in an other wise potentially good blood line.
Outbreeding is the mating of two dogs who not only are the products of two distinctly separate lines, but on top are not the products of line breeding. Outbreeding is seldom employed since in most breeding programs dogs that would qualify for outbreeding simply do not exist.
Dogs have evolved from their ancestor, the wolf. Wolves are extremely functional eaters and he can devour as much as 35 to 40 pounds of meat in just one sitting. The same also holds true for ancient dogs. It is important to understand that these animals did not eat like this just to get stuffed. Without knowing when their next meal would come, eating as much as they can (at one time) was the safest way to ensure their survival. They were hunters who had to catch their own food.
Ancient dogs and their wolf-kind also knew that they may not find prey for several days at a time. Their bodies were able to go this distance of time with full efficiency so long as they had fed in large quantities before having to fast while hunting.
For your pet’s health, feeding him foods such as chicken, raw vegetables, turkey, brown rice, fruits, and oatmeal are always great. Even though we think of these type foods as “human food”, they are actually good for many animals as well. All dogs have taste buds and noses, meaning that they get very excited when they see you with food.
If your dog runs to the refrigerator when you open it up, he’s trying to tell you that he smells something good. Even though he may run to the refrigerator, he isn’t begging for food as many think, he is simply wanting to have some real food. Once your dog starts to do this, you should give him some of what he wants. Although most real food is great for dog’s, there are some that aren’t quite so good such as egg whites and any form of chocolate.
A BACK YARD BREEDER
1. Their motives for breeding are : "fun", "good for kids", "to make money" and does not screen buyers and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable.
2. Breeds the family pet to any convenient pet of the same breed just to have purebred pups while having no understanding or concern with genetics, pedigree bloodlines, or breed improvement.
3. Though the pets (sire/dam of pups) may be well loved, they were not tested for hip dysplasia or for other genetic problems such as cardiomyopathy and hypothyroidism.
4. Offers no health guarantee beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified to give help if problems develop.
5. Seller has little knowledge of breed history, the national breed club or of breed standard and may claim this does not matter for "just pets".
6. Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, sometimes unsanitary, indicating lack of long-term investment in breeding and lack of true care for the puppies well-being.
7. May be unwilling to show a buyer the entire litter or to introduce the dam of the litter and cannot or will not compare/critique pups or pup’s ancestors.
8. If you cannot keep your pup, tells you to take it to a dog pound or to sell it.
A REPUTABLE BREEDER
1. Has A Dedication to producing quality dogs and has so much invested in dogs that he struggles to break even, not make a profit and Will sell pups only to approved buyers.
2. Does not breed dogs younger than age 2 and has breeding stock x-rayed to check for hip dysplasia, echo/doppler run for SAS,and has them holtered within the last year for boxer cardiomyopathy (also known as ARVC) and thyroid screened. Can produce certification to prove claims.
3. Has a written contractural commitment to replace a dog with genetic faults or to help owner deal with problem.
4. Has an investment in dog equipment and makes sure the puppies are kept in a safe and sanitary environment.
5. Belongs to national, regional, and/or local dog club, indicating a love for the sport of purebred dogs. Shows their dogs as an objective test too see how his stock measures up to others.
6. Helps buyer evaluate and choose a pup and explains criteria for "show prospects" versus "pet picks".
7. Price will not reflect all that is invested in the pups. A reputable breeder never profits from the sale of puppies and has an established waiting list for the pups.
8. After purchase, will help you with grooming or training problems and will take back a pup you cannot keep rather than see it disposed of inappropriately.
The key to doing this is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, just before his nap or night bedtime.
The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always praise the puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating in the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once.
Do not scold him unless you catch him in the act. Praise him for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember, a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will succeed in training him to go outside not inside.
So many people these days feel if they get a Pit Bull as a puppy they can train it to not be aggressive towards other dogs and increase the chances that the dog will have no undesirable bad behavior qualities.
Puppies can be a lot of fun and very rewarding, but with a new puppy there is no way of knowing how that dog will act as an adult.
One benefit of adopting a young adult or full grown Pit Bull is the ability to avoid the uncomfortable puppy behavior stage. This includes constant destructive chewing, house breaking, excessive and uncontrollable energy, teething and puppy biting, possible whining, howling, and barking for attention at night, and the time and effort it takes to begin teaching general manners and obedience. Another benefit is that an adopter can know how an adult Pit Bull will do with other dogs, cats, children, car rides, and other certain situations. Bringing a puppy up in the most loving and social environment can only alter its predetermined genetic urges so much. In other words, having a dog since puppy-hood does not necessarily mean it will have all of the qualities desired in a pet. It may end up having some traits that are undesirable. An adult Pit Bull, however, will have more of an established personality, and an adopter can know what to expect with the dog.
See A lot of people see the prices that some of these pitbulls are bringing and assume their dog's puppies will bring similar prices. That however is almost never the case. The average real world price on pitbull pups bred by the half a million registered pitbulls is about $100 - $300. The guy on the street that may have and exceptional Male and Female on premises to show would be purchasers, has a hard time getting $500 for a pup. Go to your local animal shelter and ask how many pitbull puppies they have because the owners were unable to place them even for free; you may be surprised. In fact, even those who breed their female pitbull to some of the top studs (Nationally recognized) in the country, after paying stud fees often in excess of $1500 are having a hard time finding buyers willing to pay over $500 for their pups. That is just the nature of the economy at present along with the supply and demand.
The American Temperament Test Society, Inc. which is a national not-for-profit organization for the promotion of uniform temperament evaluation of dogs. It was established in 1977 and has tested (as of December 2007) 28,010 dogs. Each dog tested is evaluated in a 10 step process, after which the dog receives either a passing or failing grade. The result of over 20 years of testing has yielded some surprising and not so surprising results. To no one's surprise the Labrador Retriever stands alone at the top of the heap as the dog with the best temperament (with100+ tested) with a passing grade of 92.3%. Interestingly, the American PitBull temperament as measured follows not far behind with a passing grade of 86.0%. A close examination of the testing reveals some interesting facts: The American Pit Bull Terrier consistently demonstrated equal or better temperament than many of the most trusted breeds.
While there is no firm definition of the term, Puppy mills are substandard breeding operations run by people with little concern for the welfare of their puppies or their breeding stock. Medical care is scarce; socialization and good nutrition are non-existent. Puppy mill dogs are typically in poor condition and live in kennels that are rundown and filthy. Dogs may be confined to small cages like rabbit hutches; puppies may be raised or displayed in shopping carts.
1.Look at how many dogs they actually have housed there. If there are several breeds of puppies or dogs, you are probably at a Puppy Mill. If they were a reliable breeder, they would only have one specific breed and would only have a few puppies to offer you.
2.A Good sign that things are not on the up and up is if the breeder does not offer a health guarantee. All reputable breeders will offer a health guarantee for your puppy. If the breeder does not do so you may be dealing with a puppy mill.
3.Look for flies and feces where the puppies are kept. That is a sign of mistreatment and the possibility of disease.Do these puppies or dogs have access to clean water and food?
4.If the parent dog is not on site this is a huge red flag. If at a large kennel this can mean she is there but that the breeders do not know which one these puppies came from. This is something that every reputable breeder would know and be quick to show you. Most good breeders show off their dog when you are looking at their puppies.
5.Sometimes Puppy Mills owners will offer to meet you somewhere else other than at their place of residence or the kennel area. They often put several puppies into their car and offer to meet you at the local grocery store.
6.A reputable breeder should ask you as many questions about you as you ask about them. Reputable breeders want to know that their puppies are going to good homes and owners of puppy mills do not care.
Do you have a home with a fenced yard? If not, are you willing to safely exercise a dog on a leash every day? The responsible breeder discourages ownership to anyone who wants to turn a dog loose and let it run free. A dog running loose is an invitation to disaster, which is why good breeders are intent upon finding out whether you have a fenced yard or if you will walk the dog on a leash. If you have children, how old are they? Are they educated in the proper way in which to treat a pet? Many breeders will ask at some point that the entire family visit with them, so that they can see how all family members interact with the dogs. Do they require that you will spay or neuter your dog if it is pet quality? If the animal has not already been spayed or neutered, many breeders will sell a puppy with an AKC Limited Registration which means none of its offspring can be registered and/or a spay/neuter contract which dictates spay/neuter as a requirement for registration papers.
Responsible breeders will explain their policies on spaying and neutering. Everyone should be concerned about the unwanted pet population, and breeding is best left in the hands of those who are experienced and serious. Therefore, you should be as concerned with the topic of spay/neuter as the breeder. Every pet-quality dog should be spayed or neutered. Not only does it lower the dog's chances of developing cancer, but for males there's less of a tendency to want to roam and to mark territory, and for females there's none of the bother and mess of the heat cycle.
Canine pyometra is an infectious and inflammatory disorder of the uterus typically occurring in adult, intact bitches during or immediately after the luteal phase of the estrous cycle. The clinical signs of pyometra are often nonspecific and vary among patients depending on the chronicity of the disease and the patency of the cervical canal. Early recognition, diagnosis, and treatment of pyometra are necessary to achieve a successful outcome.
Cause Of Pyometra?
Pyometra is a result of hormonal and structural changes in the uterus lining. This can happen at any age, whether she has bred or not, and whether it is her 1st or 10th heat (although it becomes more common as the dog gets older). The main risk period for a female is for eight weeks after her peak standing heat (or estrous cycle) has ended. Normally during this period, the cervix, which was open during her heat, begins to close, and the inner lining begins to adapt back to normal. However, cystic hyperplasia of the endometrium (inner lining of the uterus) – known as cystic endometrial hyperplasia (CEH) – may occur at this time for some animals, as an inappropriate response to progesterone.
What Are the Symptoms?
Signs may include